ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.8399
Longitude:-123.3986
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/30/2008 07:17:39 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.8399,-123.3986&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Monday, June 30, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Departed Sooke Friday, June 27th on the last leg. Next update from the Comox Valley in about two weeks!!
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.8399
Longitude:-123.3986
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/30/2008 07:17:39 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.8399
Longitude:-123.3986
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/30/2008 07:17:39 (America/Vancouver)
Sunday, June 29, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Departed Sooke Friday, June 27th on the last leg. Next update from the Comox Valley in about two weeks!!
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.841
Longitude:-123.3988
Nearest Location: Saturna, Canada
Distance: 15 km(s)
Time:06/29/2008 16:34:15 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.841
Longitude:-123.3988
Nearest Location: Saturna, Canada
Distance: 15 km(s)
Time:06/29/2008 16:34:15 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.841,-123.3988&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Saturday, June 28, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Departed Sooke Friday, June 27th on the last leg. Next update from the Comox Valley in about two weeks!!
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.5665
Longitude:-123.2718
Nearest Location: Saanich, Canada
Distance: 7 km(s)
Time:06/28/2008 16:30:23 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.5665
Longitude:-123.2718
Nearest Location: Saanich, Canada
Distance: 7 km(s)
Time:06/28/2008 16:30:23 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.5665,-123.2718&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Friday, June 27, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Departed Sooke Friday, June 27th on the last leg. Next update from the Comox Valley in about two weeks!!
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.3475
Longitude:-123.5724
Nearest Location: Metchosin, Canada
Distance: 5 km(s)
Time:06/27/2008 14:02:57 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.3475
Longitude:-123.5724
Nearest Location: Metchosin, Canada
Distance: 5 km(s)
Time:06/27/2008 14:02:57 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.3475,-123.5724&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Thursday, June 26, 2008
The skeg
Don Lockwood kindly sent a replacement skeg down from Comox Valley Kayaks.
He also sent instructions for its replacement, which we publish here in unedited form. Those of you who read Don's contribution in Winter Harbour will understand.
Skeg installation instructions for Doug.
1. Open the envelope being careful not to scratch the skeg.
2. Hand the skeg to either Penny or Anne.
3. Send Jonathan away to fuss with gear as Anne says he's not good at fixing things.
4. Assemble all "fixing" tools from the resupply boxes. Be sure to check each box at least twice so as not to miss something.
Directions for Penny and Anne.
1. While Doug is assembling tools grab a screw driver and replace the skeg.
2. I vote for Anne to do the assembling and Penny to supervise (much easier than jump starting a tractor)
3. Doug will be still assembling tools for a good 3 hours so I suggest you ladies go for a nice lunch.
WARNING: Failure to follow these directions will result in this project taking far too long.
He also sent instructions for its replacement, which we publish here in unedited form. Those of you who read Don's contribution in Winter Harbour will understand.
Skeg installation instructions for Doug.
1. Open the envelope being careful not to scratch the skeg.
2. Hand the skeg to either Penny or Anne.
3. Send Jonathan away to fuss with gear as Anne says he's not good at fixing things.
4. Assemble all "fixing" tools from the resupply boxes. Be sure to check each box at least twice so as not to miss something.
Directions for Penny and Anne.
1. While Doug is assembling tools grab a screw driver and replace the skeg.
2. I vote for Anne to do the assembling and Penny to supervise (much easier than jump starting a tractor)
3. Doug will be still assembling tools for a good 3 hours so I suggest you ladies go for a nice lunch.
WARNING: Failure to follow these directions will result in this project taking far too long.
Sooke update
The Tofino to Sooke leg has probably been our hardest. Many days have seen us in the boats for extended periods due either to a singular lack of beaches, or surf on the beaches available.
The first day was long, involving a 28+ nautical mile paddle from Tofino into the Broken Group, in weather that became increasingly fine as the afternoon progressed into evening. The next day was very tough. After the better weather the day before we had hoped that it might continue but it was very cold (this must be the coldest June for ages) and there was a south-easterly blowing directly in our faces as we turned away from the shore of Effingham Island and headed for Folger Island, which was on the way to Cape Beale and Pachena Bay. The marine forecast was for the wind to change to a westerly which would have given us a bit of a boost but it never happened and after 45 minutes of battling into the south-easterly we accepted the inevitable and changed direction to head in a more easterly direction towards Bamfield. If one paddles straight into a head wind and the concomitant wind waves there is an energy-sapping jarring that occurs as one crests the wave and then plunges into the trough. There is a considerable easing of effort necessary if one turns only 20 or 30 degrees away from a headwind, particularly if there are appreciable wind waves.
We did see a couple of great sea arches on Effingham, and the north coast of Diana Island, in the Deer Group, which we would not otherwise have seen had we not changed course - definitely worth a future visit.
In Bamfield we were looked after by the artist Linda Haylock and her husband Cliff Haylock, who live at the end of Bamfield Inlet, and Linda's sister Marie. Jonathan knows Linda and Cliff from cross-country skiing at Mount Washington. With only 40 minutes notice they welcomed us into their home and allowed us to de-gunge and then fed and watered us. Marie produced a wonderful vegetarian spaghetti bolognese and in the morning a fabulous breakfast. We are so grateful to all three.
Our day for rounding Cape Beale and setting ourselves up for the journey along the Juan de Fuca Strait was very memorable. In Doug’s words, “Our best viewing day” yet it was only 13 nautical miles from Bamfield to our campsite in Pachena Bay. As soon as we were out of Bamfield Inlet and heading towards Cape Beale we started coming across some great rock gardens, the kayakers’ term for rocks and channels that one can paddle around and into. The key is to time entry into channels with the movement of the swells and breaking waves.
Cape Beale has the reputation of being one of the most testing bits of the west coast, with a number of shipwrecks over the last 200 years, but, as was the case with Cape Scott, Cape Russell, and the Brooks Peninsula, we were lucky with conditions. Some decent sized boomers but rather than having to go so wide that we could not appreciate them, we were able to paddle up close and to really enjoy their power.
As we crossed Keeha Bay, before reaching Pachena Bay, we suddenly found ourselves very close to two or three (we never determined which) gray whales which swam around us for 20 minutes. Being downwind of one of them as it blew only 20 or 30 metres away, Jonathan learned first hand about cetacean halitosis. Whale breath is foul. We watched enthralled and got a couple of great photos before paddling on to Pachena Bay. We had not finished our discoveries. On the southern side of Pachena Bay, a mile or so from the beach, is a large sea arch that we spent some time investigating. We found that it actually had not only the main arch but two smaller arches leading into the main chamber. It was a great find. Continuing on our way towards the eastern end of the bay in search of a campsite we spotted a waterfall tumbling directly onto the beach. To make it a more perfect picture, a black bear wandered up to the waterfall for us.
The following day was frustrating. The wind was forecast to move to the southeast and to rise in the afternoon but we felt we had time on our side and would be able to make it to Carmanah. However, there would be few possibilities for “outs” if conditions worsened, as all of the beaches on the way would be exposed to winds coming from the south and would have surf on them. We had only been on the water for an hour and a half when it was clear that the wind was freshening much earlier than predicted and listening to the Coastguard broadcast confirmed this. A revised forecast had been issued. We were heading into a gale. We paddled back into Pachena Bay and headed for the commercial campground on the First Nations reserve, expecting to have to stay there for a day.
In fact, the gale blew through quickly and the next day we were back on the water and heading for Carmanah. We encountered strong southerlies again north of Pachena Point, and lots of clapotis, but realized that this was partly a “point” effect. Points tend to concentrate both wind and wave energy. Moving further out from points can help one escape these changes and this proved to be the case at Pachena. Once past the point we had much less wind against us and just put our heads down for the rest of the day. After nine uninterrupted hours in the boat, and a total mileage of more than 21 nautical miles we reached Carmanah.
Carmanah beach contains one of the west coast’s little oddities. For a number of years a French-Canadian woman has run the eponymous Chez Monique establishment, supplying burgers, beer and breakfast for hikers doing the West Coast Trail. A semi-permanent structure of logs and tarps, and a garden, await those who make it to the beach. Apparently they only see about four or five kayakers a year on the beach, which surprised us.
The second of our days paddling the San de Fuca Strait was the Carmanah to Port San Juan leg. The Strait is not really a paddling destination. There are some interesting geological formations but basically it is a very long straight section prone to strong winds which, to be honest, we agreed was going to be more a matter of getting done rather than enjoying enormously. Whilst this is pretty much how it worked out for us, this leg did include one of our great finds, which does not appear in any of the paddling guidebooks although we suspect it is well known to south Island paddlers. About a mile before Port San Juan is a cave complex. The middle and right hand caves, each about 50 metres from mouth to rearmost section, are joined at the back. The middle cave has a chamber wide enough for a kayak to be turned so that, having paddled down into one cave one can paddle out of the other. The colours within the caves are gorgeous, pinks and reds and greens, and the white flashes on the sides of the pelagic cormorants nesting on the walls add an additional dimension as they fly past.
We camped at Thrasher Cove, which is either the first or the last night’s stop for West Coast Trail hikers, depending on whether they tackle the trail in a northerly or southerly direction. The cove is really just a sliver of sand and must be a major part of why only a set number of hikers are allowed to set out on the trail each day. There is not much room. Whilst we were there we re-met a couple of hikers, an Ecuadoran girl and her Swiss partner with whom Doug had chatted at Pachena Bay, the other end of the trail. They had hiked the trail in three days. It takes most people five to seven. We were not surprised to learn that in Ecuador she is a mountain guide, but where a young rather slight Swiss winemaker summons up the energy to crack the Trail in three days we could not work out – “And we still had time to lie on the beaches”, they told us.
Our last two days were spent taking advantage of following seas thanks to obliging westerlies. This part of the Strait runs basically west to east, which is slightly counter-intuitive for those of us who think of the island as having a north-south lie. The same is the case in the Queen Charlotte Strait in the north, of course. The winds in the Juan De Fuca Strait tend to rise in the afternoon and we had quite a ride into our last campsite of the leg, at Jordan River. The last day the winds were less vigorous but the paddling was made more “interesting” by the fact that one of the boats lost its skeg. The skeg is usually fully lowered in following seas to improve “tracking” which is the straight-line travel of the kayak. Without the skeg down a kayak tends to veer to right or left as waves coming from behind, but slightly to one side, make the boat broach to that same side. It takes much more effort to control a skegless boat in following seas but it certainly helps in skill development. The remaining skeg was raised in sympathy and we had a testing couple of hours paddling to Sooke. There at Whiffen Spit was Penny Dutton, armed with Coca Cola and Miss Vicki’s salt and vinegar chips, our favoured first meal at re-supply. Anne and Clare Reggler arrived within moments of our beaching. The last resupply before our return to the Comox Valley was underway.
The first day was long, involving a 28+ nautical mile paddle from Tofino into the Broken Group, in weather that became increasingly fine as the afternoon progressed into evening. The next day was very tough. After the better weather the day before we had hoped that it might continue but it was very cold (this must be the coldest June for ages) and there was a south-easterly blowing directly in our faces as we turned away from the shore of Effingham Island and headed for Folger Island, which was on the way to Cape Beale and Pachena Bay. The marine forecast was for the wind to change to a westerly which would have given us a bit of a boost but it never happened and after 45 minutes of battling into the south-easterly we accepted the inevitable and changed direction to head in a more easterly direction towards Bamfield. If one paddles straight into a head wind and the concomitant wind waves there is an energy-sapping jarring that occurs as one crests the wave and then plunges into the trough. There is a considerable easing of effort necessary if one turns only 20 or 30 degrees away from a headwind, particularly if there are appreciable wind waves.
We did see a couple of great sea arches on Effingham, and the north coast of Diana Island, in the Deer Group, which we would not otherwise have seen had we not changed course - definitely worth a future visit.
In Bamfield we were looked after by the artist Linda Haylock and her husband Cliff Haylock, who live at the end of Bamfield Inlet, and Linda's sister Marie. Jonathan knows Linda and Cliff from cross-country skiing at Mount Washington. With only 40 minutes notice they welcomed us into their home and allowed us to de-gunge and then fed and watered us. Marie produced a wonderful vegetarian spaghetti bolognese and in the morning a fabulous breakfast. We are so grateful to all three.
Our day for rounding Cape Beale and setting ourselves up for the journey along the Juan de Fuca Strait was very memorable. In Doug’s words, “Our best viewing day” yet it was only 13 nautical miles from Bamfield to our campsite in Pachena Bay. As soon as we were out of Bamfield Inlet and heading towards Cape Beale we started coming across some great rock gardens, the kayakers’ term for rocks and channels that one can paddle around and into. The key is to time entry into channels with the movement of the swells and breaking waves.
Cape Beale has the reputation of being one of the most testing bits of the west coast, with a number of shipwrecks over the last 200 years, but, as was the case with Cape Scott, Cape Russell, and the Brooks Peninsula, we were lucky with conditions. Some decent sized boomers but rather than having to go so wide that we could not appreciate them, we were able to paddle up close and to really enjoy their power.
As we crossed Keeha Bay, before reaching Pachena Bay, we suddenly found ourselves very close to two or three (we never determined which) gray whales which swam around us for 20 minutes. Being downwind of one of them as it blew only 20 or 30 metres away, Jonathan learned first hand about cetacean halitosis. Whale breath is foul. We watched enthralled and got a couple of great photos before paddling on to Pachena Bay. We had not finished our discoveries. On the southern side of Pachena Bay, a mile or so from the beach, is a large sea arch that we spent some time investigating. We found that it actually had not only the main arch but two smaller arches leading into the main chamber. It was a great find. Continuing on our way towards the eastern end of the bay in search of a campsite we spotted a waterfall tumbling directly onto the beach. To make it a more perfect picture, a black bear wandered up to the waterfall for us.
The following day was frustrating. The wind was forecast to move to the southeast and to rise in the afternoon but we felt we had time on our side and would be able to make it to Carmanah. However, there would be few possibilities for “outs” if conditions worsened, as all of the beaches on the way would be exposed to winds coming from the south and would have surf on them. We had only been on the water for an hour and a half when it was clear that the wind was freshening much earlier than predicted and listening to the Coastguard broadcast confirmed this. A revised forecast had been issued. We were heading into a gale. We paddled back into Pachena Bay and headed for the commercial campground on the First Nations reserve, expecting to have to stay there for a day.
In fact, the gale blew through quickly and the next day we were back on the water and heading for Carmanah. We encountered strong southerlies again north of Pachena Point, and lots of clapotis, but realized that this was partly a “point” effect. Points tend to concentrate both wind and wave energy. Moving further out from points can help one escape these changes and this proved to be the case at Pachena. Once past the point we had much less wind against us and just put our heads down for the rest of the day. After nine uninterrupted hours in the boat, and a total mileage of more than 21 nautical miles we reached Carmanah.
Carmanah beach contains one of the west coast’s little oddities. For a number of years a French-Canadian woman has run the eponymous Chez Monique establishment, supplying burgers, beer and breakfast for hikers doing the West Coast Trail. A semi-permanent structure of logs and tarps, and a garden, await those who make it to the beach. Apparently they only see about four or five kayakers a year on the beach, which surprised us.
The second of our days paddling the San de Fuca Strait was the Carmanah to Port San Juan leg. The Strait is not really a paddling destination. There are some interesting geological formations but basically it is a very long straight section prone to strong winds which, to be honest, we agreed was going to be more a matter of getting done rather than enjoying enormously. Whilst this is pretty much how it worked out for us, this leg did include one of our great finds, which does not appear in any of the paddling guidebooks although we suspect it is well known to south Island paddlers. About a mile before Port San Juan is a cave complex. The middle and right hand caves, each about 50 metres from mouth to rearmost section, are joined at the back. The middle cave has a chamber wide enough for a kayak to be turned so that, having paddled down into one cave one can paddle out of the other. The colours within the caves are gorgeous, pinks and reds and greens, and the white flashes on the sides of the pelagic cormorants nesting on the walls add an additional dimension as they fly past.
We camped at Thrasher Cove, which is either the first or the last night’s stop for West Coast Trail hikers, depending on whether they tackle the trail in a northerly or southerly direction. The cove is really just a sliver of sand and must be a major part of why only a set number of hikers are allowed to set out on the trail each day. There is not much room. Whilst we were there we re-met a couple of hikers, an Ecuadoran girl and her Swiss partner with whom Doug had chatted at Pachena Bay, the other end of the trail. They had hiked the trail in three days. It takes most people five to seven. We were not surprised to learn that in Ecuador she is a mountain guide, but where a young rather slight Swiss winemaker summons up the energy to crack the Trail in three days we could not work out – “And we still had time to lie on the beaches”, they told us.
Our last two days were spent taking advantage of following seas thanks to obliging westerlies. This part of the Strait runs basically west to east, which is slightly counter-intuitive for those of us who think of the island as having a north-south lie. The same is the case in the Queen Charlotte Strait in the north, of course. The winds in the Juan De Fuca Strait tend to rise in the afternoon and we had quite a ride into our last campsite of the leg, at Jordan River. The last day the winds were less vigorous but the paddling was made more “interesting” by the fact that one of the boats lost its skeg. The skeg is usually fully lowered in following seas to improve “tracking” which is the straight-line travel of the kayak. Without the skeg down a kayak tends to veer to right or left as waves coming from behind, but slightly to one side, make the boat broach to that same side. It takes much more effort to control a skegless boat in following seas but it certainly helps in skill development. The remaining skeg was raised in sympathy and we had a testing couple of hours paddling to Sooke. There at Whiffen Spit was Penny Dutton, armed with Coca Cola and Miss Vicki’s salt and vinegar chips, our favoured first meal at re-supply. Anne and Clare Reggler arrived within moments of our beaching. The last resupply before our return to the Comox Valley was underway.
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Sooke
Now reached Sooke where we will stay for a couple of days with our families. Will post a proper update tomorrow.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Departed Tofino Monday 16 June. Next update from the Sooke in about 10 days
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.3561
Longitude:-123.7263
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/24/2008 14:50:57 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.3561
Longitude:-123.7263
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/24/2008 14:50:57 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.3561,-123.7263&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Monday, June 23, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Departed Tofino Monday 16 June. Next update from the Sooke in about 10 days
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.4219
Longitude:-124.0548
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/23/2008 17:12:13 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.4219
Longitude:-124.0548
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/23/2008 17:12:13 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.4219,-124.0548&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Sunday, June 22, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Departed Tofino Monday 16 June. Next update from the Sooke in about 10 days
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.5587
Longitude:-124.4716
Nearest Location: Midway, United States
Distance: 24 km(s)
Time:06/22/2008 19:59:27 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.5587
Longitude:-124.4716
Nearest Location: Midway, United States
Distance: 24 km(s)
Time:06/22/2008 19:59:27 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.5587,-124.4716&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
OK ESN:0-7391670
Departed Tofino Monday 16 June. Next update from the Sooke in about 10 days
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.5588
Longitude:-124.4715
Nearest Location: Midway, United States
Distance: 24 km(s)
Time:06/22/2008 10:08:25 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.5588
Longitude:-124.4715
Nearest Location: Midway, United States
Distance: 24 km(s)
Time:06/22/2008 10:08:25 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.5588,-124.4715&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Saturday, June 21, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Departed Tofino Monday 16 June. Next update from the Sooke in about 10 days
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.559
Longitude:-124.4713
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/21/2008 16:03:38 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.559
Longitude:-124.4713
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/21/2008 16:03:38 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.559,-124.4713&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Friday, June 20, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Departed Tofino Monday 16 June. Next update from the Sooke in about 10 days
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.6111
Longitude:-124.7478
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/20/2008 19:14:55 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.6111
Longitude:-124.7478
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/20/2008 19:14:55 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.6111,-124.7478&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Confused?
Doug and Jonathan set out this morning following a favourable marine forecast for their 14-17 mile hop. They realised the winds had changed dramatically once they were out of the shelter of the bay and the marine forecast was revised. They turned back and are now staying at a commercial First Nations campsite in Pacheena Bay. The time of the Spot message and the smallest change only in their whereabouts had definitely confused me. Jonathan managed to phone home this evening which why I have a reason for the explanation.
Anne
Anne
OK ESN:0-7391670
Departed Tofino Monday 16 June. Next update from the Sooke in about 10 days
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.7985
Longitude:-125.1266
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/19/2008 12:16:12 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.7985
Longitude:-125.1266
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/19/2008 12:16:12 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.7985,-125.1266&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Departed Tofino Monday 16 June. Next update from the Sooke in about 10 days
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.7878
Longitude:-125.1159
Nearest Location: Ecoole, Canada
Distance: 20 km(s)
Time:06/18/2008 18:27:18 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.7878
Longitude:-125.1159
Nearest Location: Ecoole, Canada
Distance: 20 km(s)
Time:06/18/2008 18:27:18 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.7878,-125.1159&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Departed Tofino Monday 16 June. Next update from the Sooke in about 10 days
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.8155
Longitude:-125.1557
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/17/2008 17:59:02 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.8155
Longitude:-125.1557
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/17/2008 17:59:02 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.8155,-125.1557&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Monday, June 16, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Departed Tofino Monday 16 June. Next update from the Sooke in about 10 days
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.8863
Longitude:-125.3806
Nearest Location: Ucluelet, Canada
Distance: 14 km(s)
Time:06/16/2008 21:22:09 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:48.8863
Longitude:-125.3806
Nearest Location: Ucluelet, Canada
Distance: 14 km(s)
Time:06/16/2008 21:22:09 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.8863,-125.3806&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Sunday, June 15, 2008
Tofino
Firstly, we need to add an amendment to our Winter Harbour entry. Our thanks to our re-supply team were clearly (we entirely accept) inadequate and we are grateful to Don Lockwood for drafting a far more accurate account which we reproduce here unchanged:
“Anne Reggler and Don Lockwood risked life and limb to restock us in Winter Harbour. They battled dust, bears and very uncomfortable beds to bring us our much needed supplies. And more importantly they endured 20 hours of watching us fuss endlessly over our gear. We are eternally grateful for their support and saint like patience”.
Now to our report. For those without the time to read a long post, here is a synopsis. This is the blog entry in which Doug and Jonathan: struggle around Kwakiutl and Lawn Points - round the Brooks Peninsula during a 29 nautical mile day - find and paddle through a great sea arch that does not appear in any of the paddling books - visit an extraordinary pit toilet in the rain forest - pop into Kyuquot - spend two wonderful days in Esperanza - successfully negotiate the outside of Nootka Island – explore Yuquot and find an old totem pole in the brambles - meet another kayaker circumnavigating Vancouver Island - feast on mussels - sit out 53 knot winds - irritate sea lions without meaning to do so - discover the geological wonders of Homais Cove - enjoy the hot springs at Hot Springs Cove despite having to paddle nearly 30 miles and whale watch on the same day - tackle current, wind and clapotis off Vargas Island - reach Tofino.
*****
The Winter Harbour to Tofino leg has been our longest yet. We left Winter Harbour in murky conditions (this really has been a pretty dismal late spring, weatherwise) and paddled across Quatsino Sound, and then around Kwakiutl Point to Lawn Point. This was surprisingly hard work as we had not realized that there is an appreciable current here which was running against us at about one knot. Add in the 10 to 15 knot southerly wind blowing against us and our speed was reduced to about one and a half knots. It was rewarding, however, since because there was a low swell we were able to paddle very close to the reefs and boomers (where swell waves hit submerged rocks leading to an explosion of turbulent breaking water) which was exhilarating.
Rounding the Brooks Peninsula is one of the Vancouver Island kayaking “biggies”. We were quite nervous about it. Kayakers who approach it with a less than committed attitude can become seriously unstuck and only a couple of years ago a kayaker was lost in the seas there. Our plan was to position ourselves in a bay about halfway along the northern shore to await suitable weather for the 17 mile journey around the peninsula. This often requires kayakers to stay in their boats for six to seven hours without a break if the weather prevents landing at the only real out on the southwest facing shore between Cape Cook and Clerke Point. As we paddled towards the Brooks it became apparent, after we had already been on the water for quite a number of hours, that conditions were actually ideal that afternoon. The winds forecast had not materialized, the wind speed at Solander Island, usually 10 to 15 knots higher than elsewhere in the area, was only four knots. We decided we had to go for it. 29 nautical miles (32 Statute miles) after we had set out for a paddle of only half that distance we had done it!
We have made some great choices on the way; some planned, some accidental. Paddling from the Brooks Peninsula south we happened across the Cuttle Islets, near the Bunsby Islands, and found a great sea arch that does not appear in any of the paddling books that we have read. Because of the height of the tide at the time, we were able to paddle through it. On the same day we also saw the sea arch that actually passes through an entire island (Thomas Island). We finished that particular paddle by staying at West Coast Expeditions’ (thanks, Dave Pinel) base camp on Spring Island. No one was there yet as the season had not quite started but we were both really impressed by the camp. Our favourite part was the most extraordinary pit toilet in the rain forest, the walls built from wonderfully shaped bits of driftwood, and with a seashell mobile hanging on one side, aptly called “Thunder Grove Cathedral”. For those who knew him, Mike Simpson’s presence was everywhere.
A quick visit to Kyuquot allowed us to get a few treats at the Kyuquot Market (thanks Kristy!); water, bananas, chips (crisps to the Brits reading this) and bacon. Kyuquot consists of two communities, a Native community on the Indian Reserve on the Vancouver Island mainland to the north, and a predominantly Euro-Canadian community on Walters Island less than a mile to the south, facing the Indian Reserve. We met a young Native man working on the dockside on Walters Island. We had heard the marine forecast that day which promised a gale soon. Doug asked about the storm coming. “It has already been”, said the young man, “but our two communities have been living together for 150 years and have learnt how to communicate with each other and hopefully the weather ahead is going to be good, God willing.”
When we reached Rosa Island a couple of days later we had to choose whether to paddle on the inside or the outside of Nootka Island. Nootka has very few sheltered beaches on its outside and after our exciting day at Nissen Bight we have renewed respect for the power of surf particularly when one is paddling heavily-laden and thus less manoeuvrable boats. The weather was expected to worsen with stronger winds so we opted to go inside. The only community on the map in the immediate area is Esperanza, which we learnt later that day is a Christian mission that now tends to the needs of families and individuals in crisis. Families go there for six weeks and are helped to face and deal with their often very serious problems. The community is very integrated with the west coast population, both Native and white. When we reached Esperanza, which is on the shore opposite Nootka’s northern side, we stopped at the store hoping to help Doug satisfy his Coca Cola and chips (crisps, Brits, remember?) craving. As it was getting late, and cold, we ended up being offered accommodation for the night, which stretched into three. We were given the use of what was essentially an apartment, with comfortable beds, a kitchen, washing machine and a hot shower. We stayed longer than expected because of high winds and so tried to repay the kindness shown us (we were not allowed to pay for the accommodation although were delighted to be able to make a donation) by helping to build kitchen cabinets in one of the buildings that is being renovated. We both want to express our heartfelt thanks to the extraordinarily kind and welcoming people we met at Esperanza, especially Nancy and Tom Murphy, Hamish, TJ, Geoff Johnson, and Dave and Dianne Lewis and visiting friends and family. The latter were paying a quick visit prior to undertaking the very daunting “Great Walk” from Gold River to Tahsis.
On leaving Esperanza we decided to backtrack ten miles and, by paddling a few miles more through what Doug calls “wallowing seas”, positioned ourselves over night at Tongue Point (thanks again to Esperanza for letting us use their shelter) prior to kayaking the outside of Nootka Island. The marine forecast was favourable, offering a one day window before more high winds were expected (high winds have been a feature of this trip, giving us more no-paddling “weather days” than we had hoped). Neither of us believed that failing to go around Nootka would diminish what we are doing – this is a circumnavigation of Vancouver Island, not of all the islands of BC’s coast – but it seemed a shame not to add this extra jewel in sea kayaking’s crown, if we could manage it. It was definitely worthwhile. Nootka’s outside coast makes for great paddling, particularly the north western tip at Ferrer Point, and especially the south eastern section from Bajo Point and reef to Beano Creek to Yuquot, which includes the very “interesting” water around Maquinna Point. Here, the inevitably confused seas that occur around most points are made extra-fun by the addition of lots of rocks and steep cliffs which adds masses of clapotis into the equation. Clapotis are waves that reflect back off rocks and cliffs, in the opposite direction to the incoming waves. Great stuff. We were able to make quick stops along the way at Third Beach which we shared with a very large but gratefully disinterested bear and again at Calvin Creek to visit the spectacular Crawfish Falls.
We were weathered in yet again at Yuquot which gave us the chance to explore. Yuquot is perhaps better known as Friendly Cove, and is one of BC’s most historic sites. It is where Captain James Cook became the first European to set foot on Canada’s west coast. At that time there were 1500 people in Yuquot, living in 22 long houses. Now there is only one house, the rest of the band having been “persuaded” to move to Gold River because it suited the government. Ray and his family let us use their spring to replenish our dwindling water supplies, and told us something of the history of Yuquot. Ray also directed us to the last totem pole in Yuquot. It lies slowly rotting, in the ferns and grass and brambles, about 100 feet from his home. It is exquisite, with small areas where some of the pigment is still just detectable. First Nations people believe that this is what should be allowed to happen to totem poles – it is a spiritual thing. To non-Native eyes it seemed somewhat sad that this link back to Yuquot’s more glorious past will simply turn to earth when it could be preserved. We also had time to visit the light house and a unique church where several historical events (including the meeting of Captains Vancouver and Quadra) are depicted in beautiful stained glass. They were donated by the Government of Spain. Doug also recognized the name of a former parish priest from Brantford Ontario, the Rev Tom Lobsinger OMI, who served the community of Friendly Cove in the 1950’s. Father Lobsinger was in Friendly Cove when the church was rebuilt and dedicated after burning down. His name appears on a plaque commemorating the event.
At Yuquot we met Fred Martin, who is also paddling around Vancouver Island. He started from Fanny Bay, a couple of day’s paddle south of Courtenay, some 10 days after us, but has been paddling almost every day. Fred is more of a minimalist, but seemed happy to experience our approach as we offered him stir-fried mussels followed by mussels steamed in Doug’s garlic, orange and parsley jus, within moments of him stepping out of his boat. The mussels, freshly harvested from the rocks just by our cabin, were, it must be said, delicious. The following day, weatherbound again although in glorious sunshine, the three of us ate more mussels, whilst watching the sea two miles outside the bay (which was calm) boiling in wind gusting at 53 knots. It is great to be able to eat food freshly gathered from the sea. We have also had meals of rockfish, kelp greenling and sea bass enticed onto our plates, via the frying pan, by Jonathan and his handline.
The next step promised to be one of the more difficult. The Hesquiat Peninsula is reasonably long and, like Nootka, has very few “outs” along the way. In fact, from Yuquot to Hot Springs Cove is a long stretch with very few campsites at all. One could turn north after rounding the tip of the peninsula, and enter a large bay named Hesquiat Harbour, but this involves crossing the Hesquiat Bar, a shallow stretch of water with nasty breaking waves (which we tackled last year) only to reach a campsite which is a total (there and back) of about 3 to 4 hours of extra paddling out of the way. Added to this, the winds were expected to be high (oh, really?) in the afternoon. We set off having planned a staged approach to the day, with decisions regarding each subsequent step to be made on reaching certain key positions. By doing this we reached Homais Cove, the only really protected bay on the peninsula, just a couple of miles north of the lighthouse at Estevan Point. This lighthouse is notable for being the only bit of Canadian soil attacked since 1812. In the Second World War a Japanese submarine shelled it. The pointlessness of this has led to a conspiracy theory that the Canadian government actually had the building shelled, to ginger up the country’s population.
Homais Cove is probably the most interesting bay we have been on. The geological formations, with lines of sandstone eroded to look like super-wide sidewalks (pavements, Brits, but you knew that) stretching out into the sea, sandwiched by odd pillows of a different sandstone above and an aggregated pebble and sandstone mix beneath, were fascinating.
Our entry into the Cove was also marked by an unusual encounter with some of the local wildlife. Paddling through a kelp bed (which reduces manoeuvrability and increases the risk of one’s paddle getting caught), we realized that we were nearing a sea lion colony on an island that we could not avoid approaching. We both have a healthy respect for these beasts, which are big and the most aggressive of all the sea mammals encountered on the BC coast. As we moved past the island, through a rather narrow channel, a very large sea lion surfaced about two yards ahead of Doug, who yelled at it since it was facing the opposite direction. It turned, reared up, and to avoid Doug’s boat executed an amazing back-flip, nearly but not quite missing the kayak which it clipped with a flipper. It let out a very annoyed bark and suddenly the whole colony of about twenty sea lions launched into the water and surged in our direction. Our paddling rate quickened somewhat and we beetled off at high speed. The sea lions kept up their barking for hours.
Our intention was to take a further three days to get to our next resupply point, Tofino. We anticipated a five hour, 14 to 15 mile (no breaks) paddle to Hot Springs Cove on the first day, a shorter flit to somewhere along the southern shore of Flores Island the next day and then a 14 mile trip into Tofino on the third day. As ever, the weather begged to differ. We were halfway through the first day’s foggy paddle when the 1030 a.m. marine forecast upped the ante and added in an outlook of gales about 24 hours ahead. We contemplated missing out Hot Spring Cove but anyone who has been there will know that this is not done lightly. So we steeled ourselves for another near 30 mile day and steered a more direct route to the Cove. The sea caves north of the Cove would have to wait. We would have to get to Tofino in two days.
The hot springs are heaven, especially if you have just kayaked for four hours and are facing another lengthy spell in the boat. The waterfall at the entrance to the pools is actually the hottest part, at nearly 50 degrees C. A neat way to enjoy the place is to climb down to the sea, get thoroughly chilled, and then progress up through increasingly hot pools and finish with the waterfall.
After the Cove we crossed to the southern shore of Flores Island and around into Cow Bay, a possible overnight stop. As we paddled towards the campsite we had used last year Jonathan spotted something we have been looking for in vain for more than 40 days. A thin triangle of mist, “base” uppermost, suddenly appeared over half a mile away: a gray whale!! In fact there were two. Despite the almost immediate appearance of two commercial whale watching boats, which we were concerned would scare the grays away, the whales carried on feeding, blowing three or four times before diving to feed on the molluscs and other goodies in the sand and mud of the bay. The noise they make when they blow is very eerie. A sort of “pfuuusht” followed by an almost metallic hollow echoing sound as if you are listening to noises generating within a huge cylinder.
We actually chose to end up in Whitesands Cove, more than 27 nautical miles from our starting point in Homais Cove, even though we had to dig deep to do it and put our tarps and tents up in the dark. The next day’s weather window was going to be small. Up early (0400 hours) we launched after a decent breakfast (we insist on this) and tackled the outside of Vargas Island in an intriguing mix of a 15-20 knot northwesterly crossing the flood current and variable amounts of clapotis, most notably off Hobbs Island at the north west tip of Vargas. We reached Tofino at noon, turning the corner into the kayak launch just as Anne Reggler arrived bearing a big smile and bottles of Coca Cola.
We are in Tofino two days, resupplying, cleaning kit and ourselves, drinking better coffee than we can make in the wilderness (Doug ran out of Rhodos coffee a few days earlier) and enjoying – sunshine. Once again, we are eternally grateful to Anne Reggler for her timely arrival and patience while we, once again in the words of Don Lockwood and Penny Dutton, futz endlessly with our gear. We were also surprised and delighted when good friend and paddling buddy Brent Arnold arrived and spent the day with us.
“Anne Reggler and Don Lockwood risked life and limb to restock us in Winter Harbour. They battled dust, bears and very uncomfortable beds to bring us our much needed supplies. And more importantly they endured 20 hours of watching us fuss endlessly over our gear. We are eternally grateful for their support and saint like patience”.
Now to our report. For those without the time to read a long post, here is a synopsis. This is the blog entry in which Doug and Jonathan: struggle around Kwakiutl and Lawn Points - round the Brooks Peninsula during a 29 nautical mile day - find and paddle through a great sea arch that does not appear in any of the paddling books - visit an extraordinary pit toilet in the rain forest - pop into Kyuquot - spend two wonderful days in Esperanza - successfully negotiate the outside of Nootka Island – explore Yuquot and find an old totem pole in the brambles - meet another kayaker circumnavigating Vancouver Island - feast on mussels - sit out 53 knot winds - irritate sea lions without meaning to do so - discover the geological wonders of Homais Cove - enjoy the hot springs at Hot Springs Cove despite having to paddle nearly 30 miles and whale watch on the same day - tackle current, wind and clapotis off Vargas Island - reach Tofino.
*****
The Winter Harbour to Tofino leg has been our longest yet. We left Winter Harbour in murky conditions (this really has been a pretty dismal late spring, weatherwise) and paddled across Quatsino Sound, and then around Kwakiutl Point to Lawn Point. This was surprisingly hard work as we had not realized that there is an appreciable current here which was running against us at about one knot. Add in the 10 to 15 knot southerly wind blowing against us and our speed was reduced to about one and a half knots. It was rewarding, however, since because there was a low swell we were able to paddle very close to the reefs and boomers (where swell waves hit submerged rocks leading to an explosion of turbulent breaking water) which was exhilarating.
Rounding the Brooks Peninsula is one of the Vancouver Island kayaking “biggies”. We were quite nervous about it. Kayakers who approach it with a less than committed attitude can become seriously unstuck and only a couple of years ago a kayaker was lost in the seas there. Our plan was to position ourselves in a bay about halfway along the northern shore to await suitable weather for the 17 mile journey around the peninsula. This often requires kayakers to stay in their boats for six to seven hours without a break if the weather prevents landing at the only real out on the southwest facing shore between Cape Cook and Clerke Point. As we paddled towards the Brooks it became apparent, after we had already been on the water for quite a number of hours, that conditions were actually ideal that afternoon. The winds forecast had not materialized, the wind speed at Solander Island, usually 10 to 15 knots higher than elsewhere in the area, was only four knots. We decided we had to go for it. 29 nautical miles (32 Statute miles) after we had set out for a paddle of only half that distance we had done it!
We have made some great choices on the way; some planned, some accidental. Paddling from the Brooks Peninsula south we happened across the Cuttle Islets, near the Bunsby Islands, and found a great sea arch that does not appear in any of the paddling books that we have read. Because of the height of the tide at the time, we were able to paddle through it. On the same day we also saw the sea arch that actually passes through an entire island (Thomas Island). We finished that particular paddle by staying at West Coast Expeditions’ (thanks, Dave Pinel) base camp on Spring Island. No one was there yet as the season had not quite started but we were both really impressed by the camp. Our favourite part was the most extraordinary pit toilet in the rain forest, the walls built from wonderfully shaped bits of driftwood, and with a seashell mobile hanging on one side, aptly called “Thunder Grove Cathedral”. For those who knew him, Mike Simpson’s presence was everywhere.
A quick visit to Kyuquot allowed us to get a few treats at the Kyuquot Market (thanks Kristy!); water, bananas, chips (crisps to the Brits reading this) and bacon. Kyuquot consists of two communities, a Native community on the Indian Reserve on the Vancouver Island mainland to the north, and a predominantly Euro-Canadian community on Walters Island less than a mile to the south, facing the Indian Reserve. We met a young Native man working on the dockside on Walters Island. We had heard the marine forecast that day which promised a gale soon. Doug asked about the storm coming. “It has already been”, said the young man, “but our two communities have been living together for 150 years and have learnt how to communicate with each other and hopefully the weather ahead is going to be good, God willing.”
When we reached Rosa Island a couple of days later we had to choose whether to paddle on the inside or the outside of Nootka Island. Nootka has very few sheltered beaches on its outside and after our exciting day at Nissen Bight we have renewed respect for the power of surf particularly when one is paddling heavily-laden and thus less manoeuvrable boats. The weather was expected to worsen with stronger winds so we opted to go inside. The only community on the map in the immediate area is Esperanza, which we learnt later that day is a Christian mission that now tends to the needs of families and individuals in crisis. Families go there for six weeks and are helped to face and deal with their often very serious problems. The community is very integrated with the west coast population, both Native and white. When we reached Esperanza, which is on the shore opposite Nootka’s northern side, we stopped at the store hoping to help Doug satisfy his Coca Cola and chips (crisps, Brits, remember?) craving. As it was getting late, and cold, we ended up being offered accommodation for the night, which stretched into three. We were given the use of what was essentially an apartment, with comfortable beds, a kitchen, washing machine and a hot shower. We stayed longer than expected because of high winds and so tried to repay the kindness shown us (we were not allowed to pay for the accommodation although were delighted to be able to make a donation) by helping to build kitchen cabinets in one of the buildings that is being renovated. We both want to express our heartfelt thanks to the extraordinarily kind and welcoming people we met at Esperanza, especially Nancy and Tom Murphy, Hamish, TJ, Geoff Johnson, and Dave and Dianne Lewis and visiting friends and family. The latter were paying a quick visit prior to undertaking the very daunting “Great Walk” from Gold River to Tahsis.
On leaving Esperanza we decided to backtrack ten miles and, by paddling a few miles more through what Doug calls “wallowing seas”, positioned ourselves over night at Tongue Point (thanks again to Esperanza for letting us use their shelter) prior to kayaking the outside of Nootka Island. The marine forecast was favourable, offering a one day window before more high winds were expected (high winds have been a feature of this trip, giving us more no-paddling “weather days” than we had hoped). Neither of us believed that failing to go around Nootka would diminish what we are doing – this is a circumnavigation of Vancouver Island, not of all the islands of BC’s coast – but it seemed a shame not to add this extra jewel in sea kayaking’s crown, if we could manage it. It was definitely worthwhile. Nootka’s outside coast makes for great paddling, particularly the north western tip at Ferrer Point, and especially the south eastern section from Bajo Point and reef to Beano Creek to Yuquot, which includes the very “interesting” water around Maquinna Point. Here, the inevitably confused seas that occur around most points are made extra-fun by the addition of lots of rocks and steep cliffs which adds masses of clapotis into the equation. Clapotis are waves that reflect back off rocks and cliffs, in the opposite direction to the incoming waves. Great stuff. We were able to make quick stops along the way at Third Beach which we shared with a very large but gratefully disinterested bear and again at Calvin Creek to visit the spectacular Crawfish Falls.
We were weathered in yet again at Yuquot which gave us the chance to explore. Yuquot is perhaps better known as Friendly Cove, and is one of BC’s most historic sites. It is where Captain James Cook became the first European to set foot on Canada’s west coast. At that time there were 1500 people in Yuquot, living in 22 long houses. Now there is only one house, the rest of the band having been “persuaded” to move to Gold River because it suited the government. Ray and his family let us use their spring to replenish our dwindling water supplies, and told us something of the history of Yuquot. Ray also directed us to the last totem pole in Yuquot. It lies slowly rotting, in the ferns and grass and brambles, about 100 feet from his home. It is exquisite, with small areas where some of the pigment is still just detectable. First Nations people believe that this is what should be allowed to happen to totem poles – it is a spiritual thing. To non-Native eyes it seemed somewhat sad that this link back to Yuquot’s more glorious past will simply turn to earth when it could be preserved. We also had time to visit the light house and a unique church where several historical events (including the meeting of Captains Vancouver and Quadra) are depicted in beautiful stained glass. They were donated by the Government of Spain. Doug also recognized the name of a former parish priest from Brantford Ontario, the Rev Tom Lobsinger OMI, who served the community of Friendly Cove in the 1950’s. Father Lobsinger was in Friendly Cove when the church was rebuilt and dedicated after burning down. His name appears on a plaque commemorating the event.
At Yuquot we met Fred Martin, who is also paddling around Vancouver Island. He started from Fanny Bay, a couple of day’s paddle south of Courtenay, some 10 days after us, but has been paddling almost every day. Fred is more of a minimalist, but seemed happy to experience our approach as we offered him stir-fried mussels followed by mussels steamed in Doug’s garlic, orange and parsley jus, within moments of him stepping out of his boat. The mussels, freshly harvested from the rocks just by our cabin, were, it must be said, delicious. The following day, weatherbound again although in glorious sunshine, the three of us ate more mussels, whilst watching the sea two miles outside the bay (which was calm) boiling in wind gusting at 53 knots. It is great to be able to eat food freshly gathered from the sea. We have also had meals of rockfish, kelp greenling and sea bass enticed onto our plates, via the frying pan, by Jonathan and his handline.
The next step promised to be one of the more difficult. The Hesquiat Peninsula is reasonably long and, like Nootka, has very few “outs” along the way. In fact, from Yuquot to Hot Springs Cove is a long stretch with very few campsites at all. One could turn north after rounding the tip of the peninsula, and enter a large bay named Hesquiat Harbour, but this involves crossing the Hesquiat Bar, a shallow stretch of water with nasty breaking waves (which we tackled last year) only to reach a campsite which is a total (there and back) of about 3 to 4 hours of extra paddling out of the way. Added to this, the winds were expected to be high (oh, really?) in the afternoon. We set off having planned a staged approach to the day, with decisions regarding each subsequent step to be made on reaching certain key positions. By doing this we reached Homais Cove, the only really protected bay on the peninsula, just a couple of miles north of the lighthouse at Estevan Point. This lighthouse is notable for being the only bit of Canadian soil attacked since 1812. In the Second World War a Japanese submarine shelled it. The pointlessness of this has led to a conspiracy theory that the Canadian government actually had the building shelled, to ginger up the country’s population.
Homais Cove is probably the most interesting bay we have been on. The geological formations, with lines of sandstone eroded to look like super-wide sidewalks (pavements, Brits, but you knew that) stretching out into the sea, sandwiched by odd pillows of a different sandstone above and an aggregated pebble and sandstone mix beneath, were fascinating.
Our entry into the Cove was also marked by an unusual encounter with some of the local wildlife. Paddling through a kelp bed (which reduces manoeuvrability and increases the risk of one’s paddle getting caught), we realized that we were nearing a sea lion colony on an island that we could not avoid approaching. We both have a healthy respect for these beasts, which are big and the most aggressive of all the sea mammals encountered on the BC coast. As we moved past the island, through a rather narrow channel, a very large sea lion surfaced about two yards ahead of Doug, who yelled at it since it was facing the opposite direction. It turned, reared up, and to avoid Doug’s boat executed an amazing back-flip, nearly but not quite missing the kayak which it clipped with a flipper. It let out a very annoyed bark and suddenly the whole colony of about twenty sea lions launched into the water and surged in our direction. Our paddling rate quickened somewhat and we beetled off at high speed. The sea lions kept up their barking for hours.
Our intention was to take a further three days to get to our next resupply point, Tofino. We anticipated a five hour, 14 to 15 mile (no breaks) paddle to Hot Springs Cove on the first day, a shorter flit to somewhere along the southern shore of Flores Island the next day and then a 14 mile trip into Tofino on the third day. As ever, the weather begged to differ. We were halfway through the first day’s foggy paddle when the 1030 a.m. marine forecast upped the ante and added in an outlook of gales about 24 hours ahead. We contemplated missing out Hot Spring Cove but anyone who has been there will know that this is not done lightly. So we steeled ourselves for another near 30 mile day and steered a more direct route to the Cove. The sea caves north of the Cove would have to wait. We would have to get to Tofino in two days.
The hot springs are heaven, especially if you have just kayaked for four hours and are facing another lengthy spell in the boat. The waterfall at the entrance to the pools is actually the hottest part, at nearly 50 degrees C. A neat way to enjoy the place is to climb down to the sea, get thoroughly chilled, and then progress up through increasingly hot pools and finish with the waterfall.
After the Cove we crossed to the southern shore of Flores Island and around into Cow Bay, a possible overnight stop. As we paddled towards the campsite we had used last year Jonathan spotted something we have been looking for in vain for more than 40 days. A thin triangle of mist, “base” uppermost, suddenly appeared over half a mile away: a gray whale!! In fact there were two. Despite the almost immediate appearance of two commercial whale watching boats, which we were concerned would scare the grays away, the whales carried on feeding, blowing three or four times before diving to feed on the molluscs and other goodies in the sand and mud of the bay. The noise they make when they blow is very eerie. A sort of “pfuuusht” followed by an almost metallic hollow echoing sound as if you are listening to noises generating within a huge cylinder.
We actually chose to end up in Whitesands Cove, more than 27 nautical miles from our starting point in Homais Cove, even though we had to dig deep to do it and put our tarps and tents up in the dark. The next day’s weather window was going to be small. Up early (0400 hours) we launched after a decent breakfast (we insist on this) and tackled the outside of Vargas Island in an intriguing mix of a 15-20 knot northwesterly crossing the flood current and variable amounts of clapotis, most notably off Hobbs Island at the north west tip of Vargas. We reached Tofino at noon, turning the corner into the kayak launch just as Anne Reggler arrived bearing a big smile and bottles of Coca Cola.
We are in Tofino two days, resupplying, cleaning kit and ourselves, drinking better coffee than we can make in the wilderness (Doug ran out of Rhodos coffee a few days earlier) and enjoying – sunshine. Once again, we are eternally grateful to Anne Reggler for her timely arrival and patience while we, once again in the words of Don Lockwood and Penny Dutton, futz endlessly with our gear. We were also surprised and delighted when good friend and paddling buddy Brent Arnold arrived and spent the day with us.
OK ESN:0-7391670
Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.1539
Longitude:-125.91
Nearest Location: Tofino, Canada
Distance: 1 km(s)
Time:06/15/2008 16:04:53 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.1539
Longitude:-125.91
Nearest Location: Tofino, Canada
Distance: 1 km(s)
Time:06/15/2008 16:04:53 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.1539,-125.91&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Saturday, June 14, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.1539
Longitude:-125.9099
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/14/2008 12:54:23 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.1539
Longitude:-125.9099
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/14/2008 12:54:23 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.1539,-125.9099&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Friday, June 13, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.1531
Longitude:-125.9104
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/13/2008 12:03:58 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.1531
Longitude:-125.9104
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/13/2008 12:03:58 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.1531,-125.9104&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Thursday, June 12, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.2614
Longitude:-126.0588
Nearest Location: Ahousat, Canada
Distance: 3 km(s)
Time:06/12/2008 20:48:39 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.2614
Longitude:-126.0588
Nearest Location: Ahousat, Canada
Distance: 3 km(s)
Time:06/12/2008 20:48:39 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.2614,-126.0588&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
OK ESN:0-7391670
Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.2449
Longitude:-126.0959
Nearest Location: Ahousat, Canada
Distance: 5 km(s)
Time:06/12/2008 20:02:40 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.2449
Longitude:-126.0959
Nearest Location: Ahousat, Canada
Distance: 5 km(s)
Time:06/12/2008 20:02:40 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.2449,-126.0959&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.4085
Longitude:-126.5666
Nearest Location: Estevan Point, Canada
Distance: 3 km(s)
Time:06/11/2008 12:49:47 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.4085
Longitude:-126.5666
Nearest Location: Estevan Point, Canada
Distance: 3 km(s)
Time:06/11/2008 12:49:47 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.4085,-126.5666&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.5937
Longitude:-126.6311
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/10/2008 07:32:09 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.5937
Longitude:-126.6311
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/10/2008 07:32:09 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.5937,-126.6311&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Monday, June 9, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.5939
Longitude:-126.6312
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/09/2008 09:26:26 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.5939
Longitude:-126.6312
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/09/2008 09:26:26 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.5939,-126.6312&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Sunday, June 8, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.5934
Longitude:-126.6311
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/08/2008 18:15:24 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.5934
Longitude:-126.6311
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/08/2008 18:15:24 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.5934,-126.6311&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Saturday, June 7, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.7471
Longitude:-126.9396
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/07/2008 16:05:50 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.7471
Longitude:-126.9396
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/07/2008 16:05:50 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.7471,-126.9396&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Friday, June 6, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.8722
Longitude:-126.7442
Nearest Location: Esperanza, Canada
Distance: 1 km(s)
Time:06/06/2008 10:04:19 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.8722
Longitude:-126.7442
Nearest Location: Esperanza, Canada
Distance: 1 km(s)
Time:06/06/2008 10:04:19 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.8722,-126.7442&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Thursday, June 5, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.8713
Longitude:-126.742
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/05/2008 10:49:13 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.8713
Longitude:-126.742
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/05/2008 10:49:13 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.8713,-126.742&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.8722
Longitude:-126.7445
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/04/2008 17:51:03 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.8722
Longitude:-126.7445
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/04/2008 17:51:03 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.8722,-126.7445&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.8276
Longitude:-126.9708
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/03/2008 18:25:55 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.8276
Longitude:-126.9708
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/03/2008 18:25:55 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.8276,-126.9708&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Monday, June 2, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.9841
Longitude:-127.2918
Nearest Location: Chamiss Bay, Canada
Distance: 9 km(s)
Time:06/02/2008 10:59:03 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.9841
Longitude:-127.2918
Nearest Location: Chamiss Bay, Canada
Distance: 9 km(s)
Time:06/02/2008 10:59:03 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.9841,-127.2918&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Sunday, June 1, 2008
OK ESN:0-7391670
Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.984
Longitude:-127.2917
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/01/2008 15:45:20 (America/Vancouver)
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.984
Longitude:-127.2917
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/01/2008 15:45:20 (America/Vancouver)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.984,-127.2917&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
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