OK ESN:0-7391670

Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.0071
Longitude:-127.4178
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/31/2008 17:59:09 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.0071,-127.4178&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.1236
Longitude:-127.7232
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/30/2008 20:26:54 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.1236,-127.7232&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

Left Winter Harbour Thursday May 29. Next update Tofino in a couple of weeks.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.3323
Longitude:-127.8722
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/29/2008 16:53:55 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.3323,-127.8722&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Winter Harbour

This has been an eventful and interesting leg of our trip including the milestones of the northernmost part of the island (Cape Sutil), and the feared capes of Scott and Russell.

The stay in Port Hardy had allowed us to gather more information about the stretch of paddling that we were about to face. Thanks to Pat and Jackie Kervin, and Kyook.

We had some hard paddling to get to the north of the island. The Tatnall Reef, the southern part of the Nahwitti Bar, was tough going with significant currents (only a brief slack) and daunting waves. We finished the day with a flypast by a Coastguard helicopter which seemed to be checking on our progress as he overflew us twice more, the last time being when we had made the beach at Cape Sutil. The pilot waggled the helicopter from side to side by way of greeting as he passed directly over us. It was a pretty gloomy day with low cloud and choppy seas. We were pleased to have made it but amazed that despite all our effort we had come less than nine miles.

The Cape Sutil to Nissen Bight section was very testing. The wind was not especially strong where we were but offshore there had been strong winds and this was reflected in size of the swells. We battled through the biggest seas that either of us have paddled – it is an awe-inspiring experience to look down 10 feet from the crest of a wave to the other paddler in the trough. Some of the waves were 12 to 15 feet in height. Getting off the water was always going to be one of the hardest parts of the day. We selected an allegedly sheltered cove but found when we reached it that it was rocky and definitely not sheltered because of the size of surf that day. We decided to land in Nissen Bight. The surf was very big and we both ended up being turfed out of our boats and swimming them to shore. There were four guys on the beach who helped us get our boats above the high water mark, got Doug (who was very cold) into fresh fleece and warmed us up with a very welcome cup of tea. Thanks to Curt Usherwood, Bob Gilbey, Earl Sontag and Dan Baudin who were hiking the new North Coast Trail. Curt and Earl had cleared the Cape Scott Trail as a BC Centennial project in 1972 as members of the Canadian Forces stationed at CFS Holberg.

Our next paddling day was a very significant one. At 1025 hours we turned our bows south for the first time as we rounded Cape Scott. After our adventures two days before off Nissen Bight we were prepared for a real battle but the day was a glorious one and although the sea is never still, and there was always the sound of waves crashing on rocks, it was a very benign paddle, and we were able to get close to the shore and wend through the reefs of Cape Scott and Cape Russell, taking care to avoid boomers (rocks that are mainly submerged but against which the largest swells smash, creating huge bursts of frothy water). We made 18 miles and reached San Josef Bay.

Our expected day of arrival in Winter Harbour was May 27 but when we reached our intended campsite in Grant Bay the realization that another three hours push would allow us to beat the promised rainy and windy weather the next day gave us extra strength. We managed a 28 mile day and arrived tired but looking forward to a two day stopover.

Winter Harbour is a quiet little community that was much more on the map when the fishing industry was stronger. We met up with a group who are here for a fishing trip and were invited in for a lunch of the most fantastic chowder that either of us have tasted, prepared by Adrian Lepitre for fishing buddies Ron Greene, Robin Rooke and Bruce (“Pockets”).

Very many thanks to both Anne Reggler and Don Lockwood for making the long trip out to Winter Harbour from the Comox Valley in order that we were resupplied and also fed a fantastic chicken curry and a full English breakfast.

We are leaving Winter Harbour on Thursday morning. Ahead lies the Brooks Peninsula. Next update will be from Tofino but we are not sure when – the Brooks can only be tackled in good weather.

OK ESN:0-7391670

Left Pt Hardy on Tues May 20th for Cape Scott and Winter Harbour, next likely update point.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.51
Longitude:-128.027
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/28/2008 09:27:49 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.51,-128.027&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

Left Pt Hardy on Tues May 20th for Cape Scott and Winter Harbour, next likely update point.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.51
Longitude:-128.0269
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/27/2008 09:55:53 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.51,-128.0269&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

Left Pt Hardy on Tues May 20th for Cape Scott and Winter Harbour, next likely update point.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.5127
Longitude:-128.0307
Nearest Location: Elephant Crossing, Canada
Distance: 17 km(s)
Time:05/26/2008 19:36:33 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.5127,-128.0307&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

Left Pt Hardy on Tues May 20th for Cape Scott and Winter Harbour, next likely update point.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.675
Longitude:-128.2824
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/25/2008 16:16:03 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.675,-128.2824&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

Left Pt Hardy on Tues May 20th for Cape Scott and Winter Harbour, next likely update point.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.7947
Longitude:-128.3071
Nearest Location: Elephant Crossing, Canada
Distance: 23 km(s)
Time:05/24/2008 10:06:52 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.7947,-128.3071&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

Left Pt Hardy on Tues May 20th for Cape Scott and Winter Harbour, next likely update point.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.7947
Longitude:-128.3071
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/23/2008 20:36:55 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.7947,-128.3071&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

Left Pt Hardy on Tues May 20th for Cape Scott and Winter Harbour, next likely update point.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.871
Longitude:-128.0535
Nearest Location: Shushartie, Canada
Distance: 14 km(s)
Time:05/23/2008 07:50:43 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.871,-128.0535&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

Left Pt Hardy on Tues May 20th for Cape Scott and Winter Harbour, next likely update point.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.8711
Longitude:-128.0536
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/22/2008 15:57:24 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.8711,-128.0536&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

Left Pt Hardy on Tues May 20th for Cape Scott and Winter Harbour, next likely update point.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.8729
Longitude:-128.0539
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/21/2008 17:11:13 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.8729,-128.0539&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

Left Pt Hardy on Tues May 20th for Cape Scott and Winter Harbour, next likely update point.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.8546
Longitude:-127.8562
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/20/2008 19:29:25 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.8546,-127.8562&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Rest days

Now that we have reached Port Hardy, which is about 20-25% of the way around the Island, we are taking a slightly longer break. Our special thanks to Pat and Jackie Kervin (and Kyook) of Odyssey Kayaking for storing our boats to make this possible. Pat also provided valuable advice and local knowledge for our next few paddling days. We will be back on the water on Tuesday. Port Hardy is a great place. A proper coffee house is a major plus. It also has a neat little bookshop and craft shop attached. There is a great marina too.

Our progress up the island has been very steady. After Sayward we hit a couple of less good days from the point of view of the weather. A strong south-easterly led to a decision to stay off the water after only one day back on. Even when the south-easterly was over the ebb, which would have been expected to flatten the water somewhat, the water looked just a fierce so we stayed under cover, ate a lot (which we always seem to do on rest days) and brought our journals up to date.

We were at the Forestry Department campground at Naka Creek, which is a site with a good beach. Even on good beaches the problem of getting back on the water is not inconsiderable. Even if we could lift a fully laden Explorer between the two of us, the strain on the boat would be enormous and the risk of catastrophic damage very real. We have mastered the art of getting heavily laden boats back on the water using drift wood as rollers.

After two nights at Naka Creek we decided that we should get on again. The forecast was a little better than the day before. We were still able to use the ebb, and the SE wind helped too although the last stretch, from Telegraph Cove to Alder Bay, was fairly demanding. Four foot wind waves coming from the starboard stern quarter meant that we were well-practised in bracing and surfing by the time we reached the Alder Bay Resort. Thrilling stuff but we needed to concentrate hard. Not the time to try to admire the scenery. You use most of your senses during a paddle like this, watching the tilt of the horizon and the heading of the bow, listening for breaking waves behind you, feeling for the resistance of the water on your blade and the edging of the boat beneath you, and the pressure of the thigh pads on your legs and the footpegs on your feet.

Fortunately we had had a strengthening lunch of truly fabulous burgers at Telegraph Cove's restaurant. We hit the Cove right at the start of the season so the restaurant, which is often packed, was empty except for us. Just as well - any other guests might have been a bit put off their lunches by two sweaty kayakers, half-stripped of their dry suits (and thus odorous), devouring their food. Thanks to Steve Emery and Louise Defryn of North Island Kayaks for looking after our boats and kit whilst we went in search of sustenance. Unfortunately we saw no orcas. The resident pods are not expected for a few weeks. There are apparently a few transients around but sadly we did not spot any.

Alder Bay Resort is a good stopping point as it too has a good beach for landing and launching. The campsites are right on the water. And, joy of joys, there are hot showers.

Leaving Alder Bay involved an important decision. Our next re-supply point was Port Hardy where Anne and Penny would be meeting us in two days. We knew that the next day of paddling might be quite tough as the start would be against the flood. A knot of current against you slows you by a full knot. We were expecting one or two knots of current. There was also a worry about campsites - there are not many certain ones in the area and we did not want to be paddling into the evening without a clear target. We therefore, with regret, had to decide not spend any time visiting the communities of Alert Bay (mainly First Nations) and Sointula (originally a Finnish pioneers community). It was a wise choice. It was one of our harder days yet we travelled only 12 miles. It seemed to take an age to cross the Nimpkish River estuary.

Luckily we came across a campground that is not featured in the kayaking guidebooks that we have used (there are about four or five in total). Quite a surprise as it is a very well-kept and attractive campsite on a First Nations Reserve, called the Cluxewe resort. However, we probably have found the reason. Clouds of no-see-'ums (midges to the Brits reading this) that managed to find every uncovered and non-DEETed bit of skin.

Our paddle to Port Hardy was a little under 17 miles (by the way, we are using nautical miles which are 1.85 kilometres, or 1.15 Statute miles). It was fantastic. The view across to the BC mainland was over water that at times was as calm as a mill pond, and the mirroring of our kayaks on the water looked really cool. We found a picture perfect white shell beach for our lunch in the sun. If it had not been for the fir trees, and the snow-capped mountains in the background, we might have been in the Caribbean.

Port Hardy

We got here yesterday and are sorting stuff out and having a bit of a relax. We'll be here until Tuesday. We'll post a more complete update in the next couple of days. The trip is going really well. The extra couple of rest days will also allow the currents to be right in the morning for crossing the Nahwitti Bar at the western end of the Goletas Channel, a notorious hotspot.

Our next SPOT message will be on Tuesday afternoon at our next stop, weather permitting.

OK ESN:0-7391670

Making good progress. Next planned resupply stop Port Hardy later in the week.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.7228
Longitude:-127.4876
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/16/2008 15:08:26 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.7228,-127.4876&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

Making good progress. Next planned resupply stop Port Hardy later in the week.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.6149
Longitude:-127.177
Nearest Location: Port McNeill, Canada
Distance: 6 km(s)
Time:05/15/2008 16:18:55 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.6149,-127.177&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

Making good progress. Next planned resupply stop Port Hardy later in the week.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.5596
Longitude:-126.9149
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/14/2008 16:07:09 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.5596,-126.9149&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

Making good progress. Next planned resupply stop Port Hardy later in the week.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.4774
Longitude:-126.4274
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/13/2008 10:37:56 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.4774,-126.4274&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

Making good progress. Next planned resupply stop Port Hardy later in the week.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.4789
Longitude:-126.4274
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/12/2008 16:50:44 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.4789,-126.4274&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Sayward

We are having a resupply day here in Sayward.  Penny and Anne have brought up some stuff for us from Courtenay.

We had a good run up from Heriot Bay, staying overnight at Maurelle Island just north of the Octopus Group of Islands, and had the chance to see the current rushing past our campsite.

When we got to Chatham Point lightstation we met Alice Woods, the lightkeeper, and her border collie, Maggie.  Alice kindly let us use her cell hook-up (enormous aerial attachment).  Alice has said that she will inform all of the lightkeepers on the island of our blog so that they may track our progress.

There was a strong ebb during both of the last two days so we got swept along nicely, with speeds of up to 8 knots.

Next update will be from Port Hardy.

OK ESN:0-7391670

On our way; conditions great. Message update Port Hardy; May long weekend. Google maps link shows latest position.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.3961
Longitude:-125.9596
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/10/2008 14:49:54 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.3961,-125.9596&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

On our way; conditions great. Message update Port Hardy; May long weekend. Google maps link shows latest position.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.3601
Longitude:-125.6531
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/09/2008 15:36:55 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.3601,-125.6531&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

On our way; conditions great. Message update Port Hardy; May long weekend. Google maps link shows latest position.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.2882
Longitude:-125.2081
Nearest Location: Owen Bay, Canada
Distance: 3 km(s)
Time:05/08/2008 14:52:20 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.2882,-125.2081&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

On our way; conditions great. Message update Port Hardy; May long weekend. Google maps link shows latest position.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.2884
Longitude:-125.2077
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/08/2008 14:28:14 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.2884,-125.2077&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Journey so far

We've had some excellent paddling up until now. The trip today from Shelter Point to Heriot Bay (thanks Jon and Jackie Watson for a front lawn to camp on, fabulous coffee, good beer and a great early-morning send-off) was a bit more work as we headed into a strong ebb and a fairly brisk northwesterly, but rounding Cape Mudge was thankfully less trouble than we thought.

Lots of wildlife. Large numbers of eagles (some being mobbed by seagulls), herons, scoters (surf, white-winged and black), harlequin ducks, mergansers, and even a lone pair of buffle-heads (the rest have gone north). We also know why seal bay is so-named!

This is our first opportunity to thank our families and friends for the great send off, Comox Paddlers for coming out in force, Janice and Kim from Rhodos for supplying fortifying pre-launch coffee, Gary and Brenda Olenik for the faux champagne, Comox Valley Kayaks, Jill Blacklock and Sharon Crowe for the special equipment, and Sally Alton for the on-water delivery of some fantastic fruit cake. It was wonderful to see Dave Musgrave and Don Lockwood at Kitty Coleman - thanks for the beer (most of the trip will be dry - no room!).

Very special thanks to our long-time paddling buddy Brent Arnold who launched with us and paddled on day 1 and day 2. We hope you can catch up with us for more days on the water during the trip.

We are staying with great friends Jill and Charlie for two nights. We found on our last trip that planned pauses are invigorating and very necessary. So - NO Spot tomorrow.

OK ESN:0-7391670

On our way; conditions great. Message update Port Hardy; May long weekend. Google maps link shows latest position.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:50.1023
Longitude:-125.2124
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/06/2008 12:14:49 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.1023,-125.2124&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7391670

On our way; conditions great. Message update Port Hardy; May long weekend. Google maps link shows latest position.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.9432
Longitude:-125.1863
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/05/2008 17:04:55 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.9432,-125.1863&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

They are off!!

Doug and Jonathan started their adventure in beautiful weather this morning. There were many friends who came out to wish them Bon Voyage. They are joined for the first day by one of their paddling buddies, Brent.

OK ESN:0-7391670

On our way; conditions great. Message update Port Hardy; May long weekend. Google maps link shows latest position.
ESN:0-7391670
Latitude:49.682
Longitude:-124.9843
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:05/04/2008 09:27:24 (America/Vancouver)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.682,-124.9843&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1